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Aluminum Ornamental Sections:
Overview | Specifications | Gallery Photos | Brochure | Warranty | Freight | Installation Instructions
Delgard

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IMPORTANT NOTES:

  • Be sure to check with your city, county and/or community to acquire all the necessary permits for construction of your fencing system.
  • For easier installation, we recommend that at least two people install the fence.
  • Be sure that the desired location of fence lines does not exceed property lines. We recommend that all posts be set approximately 4" inside your property lines.
  • When digging post holes, watch for and check out any underground cable or pipe lines. It's advised that you contact your local utility companies

 Tool List:

Post Hole Digger
Wheelbarrow
Shovel
Tape Measure
Level
String & Stakes (or Mason's Line)
Rubber Mallet
Wrench
Hacksaw

Layout & Planning:

1. First, stake out the area to be enclosed and run a string around the stakes as shown in figure 1. The posts should remain 1/8" away from the string. See Figure 1.

 

2. There are four types of fence posts, see Figure 2. The first is the line post, which has 1" square holes punched on opposite sides of the post. Second is the end post, which has the 1" square holes on only one side of the post. Third is the gate post, which has 1" square holes on only one side and has a thicker wall. Finally, the corner post has holes punched on two adjacent sides. Separate the posts into their respective groups.

3. At this point, use a rubber mallet to drive the post caps onto the post. Use caution not to damage the post or post caps.

4. Determine the amount of concrete mix you will need by consulting your local building supply dealer. Mix the concrete on the dry side to obtain a quick set and to give additional support when installing the fence sections.
 

HELPFUL HINT:
  • A 4' FENCE POST REQUIRES A 6" HOLE 18" DEEP
     = .3 CF OF CONCRETE
  • A 5' FENCE POST REQUIRES A 6" HOLE 24" DEEP
     = .4 CF OF CONCRETE
  • A 6' FENCE POST REQUIRES A 6" HOLE 30" DEEP
     = .5 CF OF CONCRETE

Fence Installation:

1. For the ease of grass trimming under the fence, we recommend locating the bottom of the fence pickets 2-3 inches above ground level. Before you begin, decide whether you would like the screws on the fence sections facing the inside or outside of your property, the installation is similar either way. Generally the screws are installed on the inside, giving a smooth outside appearance.

 

IMPORTANT NOTES:
  • If you live where extreme ground frost may occur, extend concrete footing belong frost line.
  • Local  municipalities may require different hole depths than those that are suggested above.  Please verify that these depths meet all local codes.
  • Gate posts are twice as thick as regular posts.
  • For proper gate operation, be sure that the tops of the gate posts are level and the posts are plumb.

2. Using a post hole digger, dig 18" deep post holes for the 36", 42", 48" high fence, dig 24" deep post holes for the 72" high fence.

3. If possible, begin installing your fence with a gate. Be sure that the gate is centered properly over the walkway/driveway. The width between the posts corresponds to the width of a single gate. For example, a 36" wide gate fits a 36" wide opening. A double (drive) gate will require ½" less. For example, two 6' gates for a driveway fit a 11' 11 ½" wide opening.  Pay particular attention to the direction of the slots on the post while planning the installation of your, especially if your gate is at the end of the property line. See Figure 3 for an example.

4. Dig the post holes as recommended in step 2 and set a post in each hole. While holding the posts perpendicular to the ground and the correct distance apart, proceed to fill the holes with concrete and tamp around each post until the concrete is approximately 2 inches below ground level. Attach gate after concrete has hardened. Verify that the posts ate plumb, level and the correct distance apart.

5. Proceed to install all other gate posts that are not in the same straight line of fence. The installation of gates that are in the same line will be installed when the fence reaches that point.

6. After the gate posts have been set, proceed with the straight run of fence. Starting from the center of the gate post, measure 6'-3/4" intervals. For a straight alignment, we recommend not to install more than 8 sections of fence at a time.

7. Place a post in the next hole and place a section of fence in the slots of the gate post. Insert the other end of the fence section into the slots of the first line post. Pour a stiff mix of concrete into the hole. Check the post for being plumb and check alignment with string guide before the concrete sets. This procedure is repeated for the remaining sections of fence.

If a fence is under 6' long, a hacksaw is needed to cut the fence to the proper length.  Also a 3/16" x 3/4" notch is required for the newly cut ends.  See Figure 4.

 

In order for two sections of fence to fit into a corner post, a 45 degree miter on the fence rail must be cut.  See Figure 5.

RECOMMENDATION:

For a neat, professional appearance, we recommend repeating these steps after installing every  8 sections of fence:

  1. Sighting along the top horizontal rails, the fence should appear to be one continuous line.
  2. Using a level, ensure that posts are properly aligned and plumb.  They should appear to be connected when viewed from the end of a straight section of fencing.
  3. Check to make sure that the posts are parallel to the pickets.  Because of the ability of the fence to rack, the fence may follow the contour of the terrain, rather than having sharp up and down fence patterns.  On unusually rough ground, you may raise and lower a post to follow the contour of the terrain.

8. Continue adding sections of fence until you get to either the end of the line or the next gate. At this point add either a wall mount casting, a corner, end or gate posts whichever is applicable.

Gates:

 9. After the concrete has set, the gate can be installed. With proper installation of the gate posts, there will be a ½" allowance between the gate and each post. Decide at this point whether the gate is to open inward or outward. See Figure 6 for examples.

 

Under the assumption that the installer is standing on the outside of the fence, opening outward means opening toward the installer and hinging left means that the hinge is on the installer's left side. Notice the position of the hinges on Figure 8 in relation to the diagonal. To prevent the gate from sagging install the hinges on the side of the gate where the diagonal is at the bottom. All gates are available as left or right to provide smooth appearance on the outside.

NOTE: It is important to mount the gate is such a way that the horizontal gate rails are in line with the horizontal rails of the fence.

 

Locate the position of the two (2) three-leafed hinges on the gate post and drill (8) 7/64" diameter holes for each hinge. Fasten each hinge by using eight (8) #6 x ½" self- tapping screws. As shown in figure 7.

When the hinge is to be mounted on a flat surface, such as brick or wood columns, use the appropriate fasteners. Wood screws will be used to mount the hinge to a wood column and anchors will be needed for concrete or brick applications. Ask your local building supply dealer to recommended appropriate hardware.

When mounting the hinge on a flat surface, open the two lager leafs of the hinge and mount them on the surface.

IMPORTANT: The hinge pins must be in line with each other or the gate will not open smoothly.

Attach the hinge to the gate, remembering the position of the hinges in relationship to the diagonal rail as shown in Figure 8.

IMPORTANT: It is important not to mount the hinges on the gate post higher that the top horizontal rail of the fence or lower than the bottom horizontal rail of the fence.

Locate the correct position of the gate on the hinge and drill seven (7) 7/64" diameter holes for each hinge. Mount each hinge to the gate by using seven (7) #6 x ½" screws.

NOTE: If you require the gate to be self-closing, use the adjustable spring-loaded hinges provided. Set the tension by depressing the spring with the flat head screw driver, turning counterclockwise and releasing at the desired level of tension.  Both hinges must have the same amount of tension.

 

10. For a double gate installation, be certain you have a left and right hand gate and install them as shown in Figure 9. The top of the diagonals must run towards each other between the gates. The mounting procedure is the same as a single gate.

Drop Rods:

NOTE: The drop rods are generally mounted on the inside of the gate.

Mount a drop rod guide two (2) inches from the bottom of the gate by drilling two (2) 7/64" holes and fastening the guide with two (2) #6 x ½" self tapping crews. Fasten the second guide 20 inches above the bottom of the gate in the same fashion as the first guide. Before fastening the second guide, use the drop rod to align the guides. Next, install the drop rod catch high enough so that the rod will not drag on the ground while opening or closing the gate. Be certain not to install the catch too high so that the rod pulls out of the bottom guide. The fastening procedure is the same as the other two guides.

Final Steps:

11. The final installation step is completed after the concrete around each post has hardened sufficiently. Fasten the post to the fence using the #8 x 1" self-drilling, self-tapping screws provided. Be careful not to over-torque the screw as this will weaken the screw and possibly shear the head off.

12. To complete your fence, after the cement has hardened, replace dirt and grass around posts.

 
 
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